Faerie Lore and Legends

Nestled in North Seattle, Licton Spring stands out as a rare survivor among American holy wells and sacred springs. It’s not necessarily a “holy well” in the traditional sense, as defined by the phenomena around Europe known as “holy wells”, but rather a magical spring that was frequented by Native American tribes, who sourced spiritual and magical essences.

Its name, derived from the Lushootseed word for red ochre, marks the site not only as a geological curiosity but as a spiritual heartland for the Duwamish and other Coast Salish peoples. For thousands of years, the vivid red pigment collected here was used in ceremonies, painting faces, homes and tools with a clay rich in cultural significance.

The ritual use of Licton Spring threads deep into First Nation folklore, giving the site a weight and presence not easily matched. Sacred gatherings drew high-born families who used the ochre for wedding rites, linking their lineage to this unique spring. Even now, elders return to its waters, honoring traditions that predate modern Seattle by centuries.

Today, Licton Spring’s legacy endures, with modern threats to its flow and sanctity sparking new discussions about stewardship and heritage. The site remains a point of reverence, its story connecting both past and present. For those drawn to folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs, this living source invites exploration into both ancient custom and ongoing community meaning. Gain further perspective by exploring the Licton Springs history or deepening your understanding of First Nation traditions.

Ancient Origins: The Duwamish, the Creator, and Licton Spring

At the heart of Seattle’s history and the folklore of its holy wells and sacred springs stands Licton Spring, a living monument to the relationship between the Duwamish people and their ancestral homeland. For generations, this iron-rich spring has anchored both ritual and daily life, revered as a lasting gift from the Creator (dókwibuA). Its enduring importance goes far beyond resource or landmark; it is woven into identity, ceremony, and the natural order that shaped Coast Salish culture.

The Name and Meaning of Lee’kteed (le’qtid)

The very name “lee’kteed” (le’qtid) holds keys to understanding the spring’s spirit. Known in Lushootseed, the local Salish dialect, lee’kteed refers to the vivid red ochre clay found only where Licton Spring rises. This rare ochre, both pigment and symbol, transformed the site into a wellspring of cultural practice. Used for ceremonial painting, the red earth became sacred through its scarcity and ritual use, not unlike the ochre collected at sacred sites around the world. Each season, Duwamish ancestors drew this ochre to mark faces, objects, and homes, asserting the presence of the Creator in both daily and sacred acts, affirming Licton Spring as a source of both color and life in the landscape of folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs.

Ceremonial Gatherings and Cultural Practices

Ceremonial gatherings at Licton Spring shaped more than tradition; they shaped entire lineages. Each year, high-ranking families of the Coast Salish would gather to collect the red pigment reserved for milestones such as marriage ceremonies. The spring’s ochre marked both beginnings and bonds. Nobility painted their faces and hands with lee’kteed and adorned their longhouses, sanctifying unions and sealing alliances. This ritual “painting of the bloodline” extended far beyond appearance, reaching into the heart of identity and kinship. Spiritual gatherings included song, storytelling, and remembrance, creating a living thread that connected past to present, making the spring central to cycles of celebration and renewal.

Sweat Lodges, Healing, and Herbal Traditions at Licton Spring

Sacred sites call for sacred spaces. Alongside Licton Spring, the Duwamish built sweat lodges, wu Xted (WUKH-Tud); as places for cleansing, prayer, and community healing. Participants would gather within these warm sanctuaries to sweat, release, and receive the blessing of the spring itself. The water, red ochre, and locally gathered herbs combined in rituals that cleaned both body and spirit. Red pigment mixed with healing plants smoothed onto the skin became medicine as much as symbol; a merging of the physical and the sacred. This tradition wrapped healing, spirituality, and place together, making Licton Spring not only a source but a sanctuary, a witness to the resilience of Duwamish custom. Through these practices, the spring remains central in the tapestry of folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs, radiating meaning across generations.

Colonial Encounters: Transition from Sacred Site to Spa Destination

The transformation of Licton Spring from a center of Indigenous ritual to a spa destination charts a telling chapter in the greater story of folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs. As the 19th century unfurled, curiosity and ambition branded this ancient site with new identities, pushing it into the limelight of early Pacific Northwest health tourism. Community hopes, personal stories, and commercial ventures all converged in this period, bringing forth changes that can still be felt in Licton Springs Park today.

Testing and Transformation: 19th Century Spa Aspirations

In the late 1800s, Licton Spring stood at a crossroads, its sacred waters suddenly subject to the tools and tests of Western science. When Seattle pioneer David Denny acquired the surrounding land in 1870, he looked beyond its spiritual renown and sought scientific confirmation of its merits. A formal testing of two local springs in 1883 revealed mineral riches; one, an iron spring (Licton Spring itself), the other, Sulphur Magnesia. The results helped ignite Seattle’s fascination with the curative powers of natural waters, driving the site into a new age as a health destination.

The folklore surrounding holy wells and sacred springs took on a modern face here. Denny’s own family became part of its healing mythology: his daughter, Emily Inez Denny, was reportedly cured of an “incurable disease” after drinking Licton Spring’s mineral water. Such stories, circulating by word of mouth and period newspapers, blurred the lines between tradition and progress, inviting new visitors eager to find their miracles. Early promotion for the spa promised relief for ailments ranging from arthritis and rheumatism to “tired arches,” anticipating the era’s wider fascination with the therapeutic potential of natural springs, a trend seen in spa towns across the world, as explored in the global history of wellness.

Spa ventures soon followed. The waters were not only offered to guests for bathing but also bottled and sold, their benefits extolled on signage and advertisements. The resort atmosphere invited city dwellers to escape the bustle of urban life and embrace the restorative spirit that had attracted Indigenous communities for millennia.

Rustic Shelters, Community Use, and Decline

As Seattle’s population grew and the hunger for recreation blossomed, Licton Springs drew renewed attention as a public space. At the turn of the 20th century, plans emerged to convert the natural spring into a carefully landscaped retreat. The renowned Olmstead brothers, whose park designs shaped cities across America, were commissioned to create rustic shelters and pathways around the spring, aiming to combine beauty, leisure, and wellness. While these ambitious plans found support among city leaders and health advocates, funding gaps and changing priorities left most of the vision unrealized.

Yet evidence of community engagement lingered. Photographs from the 1910s show crowds gathered around a stone ring built at the spring head, a modest but lasting gesture to mark the site’s local importance. It gained repute as America’s Chalice Well. In 1935, new investment arrived with Edward A. Jensen, who built modest thermal baths, further solidifying Licton Spring’s standing as a spa destination. Signs touted its healing potential, echoing the language seen at famous spa towns around the world, as highlighted in roundups such as notable historic spas.

Despite these efforts, the momentum faded by the mid-20th century. By 1960, the city purchased the grounds, and in time, the spa building and the bathhouse over the spring were torn down. Today, only a simple concrete ring encases the iron spring; a silent witness to decades of changing dreams and shifting values. The rituals of the Duwamish, the optimism of early settlers, and the communal hopes of later generations linger here, layered in the earth and memory, shaping the ongoing conversation around folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs.

Enduring Significance for the Duwamish: Rituals, Resilience, and Responsibility

Licton Spring continues to hold unwavering spiritual meaning for the Duwamish, far surpassing its value as a geographic feature. Over centuries, the site has anchored both ceremonial practice and guardianship traditions, surviving not only shifts in local culture but also the weight of outside pressures. The spring stands today as living proof of the Duwamish’s connection to their ancestral landscape; a connection that weaves together folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs across time.

Guardianship, Ceremony, and Threats to the Sacred Flow

The Duwamish see themselves not just as inheritors but as stewards of Licton Spring, tasked by the Creator (dókwibuA) to sustain its spirit and flow. This perspective aligns with their deep-rooted belief that the spring was a gift; intended to endure, unbroken, into future generations. Elders describe Licton Spring (le’qtid) as irreplaceable and inalienable, echoing a sentiment heard in many indigenous traditions where sacred water sites embody both cultural heritage and living memory.

Ceremonial duties at the spring remain vital threads in Duwamish identity. Seasonal gatherings are marked by quiet rituals; preparation for winter ceremonials, cleansing with mineral waters, and the gathering of red ochre. These acts affirm not only continuity with the past but also a sense of renewed promise, even as the wider world changes. Practices such as applying the ochre to faces and longhouse walls are more than tradition; they are living acts of guardianship and spiritual renewal.

Yet, the very existence of folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs like Licton Spring faces persistent threats. Urban development has encroached upon its source, putting pressure on the fragile water table below. The demolition of historic community landmarks nearby and major construction projects have, according to Duwamish elders, noticeably reduced the spring’s flow. For those who return season after season, these changes are not merely observed; they are felt, a lessening of the song that once ran through both water and ceremony.

The Duwamish remain vocal in their call to protect Licton Spring. They make clear, in ways both spiritual and practical, that this site cannot be recreated, moved, or replaced. Its loss would silence a unique relationship that spans centuries. Their experience reflects wider Indigenous struggles to defend sacred places across North America, where legal, cultural, and environmental barriers challenge the continuity of traditions that have outlasted empires and time. To better understand the depth of these challenges and how tribes fight to protect sacred spaces, the story of Indigenous legal barriers to protecting sacred lands provides a valuable wider context.

What emerges at Licton Spring is a lived resilience; a quiet resistance that refuses to break the chain between ancestor and descendant. Through ceremony, storytelling, and public stewardship, the Duwamish maintain their bond with the spring, inviting others to recognize its irreplaceable value. In the shadow and sunlight of the park, Licton Spring remains not just a feature of the land, but a pulse that sustains folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs for all who listen.

Licton Spring in a Global Context: Folklore, Holy Wells, and Sacred Springs

Stepping back from the Pacific Northwest, Licton Spring calls to mind ancient sites scattered across the continents; each rooted in its soil, tradition, and myth. Folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs form a network of sacred water sources woven into the story of humankind. While Licton Spring is unique to the Duwamish and Coast Salish, its role strongly mirrors a wider heritage where water and earth converge into ritual, legend, and healing.

The Sacred Power of Springs Around the World

Across cultures, springs have always carried more than water; they brought hope, sanctuary, and sometimes even fear. From the healing wells of Ireland to the red ochre sources of the Pacific Northwest, these sites have endured not simply for their substance, but for the layers of belief that cling to them. Licton Spring’s red ochre pigment has been compared to such global counterparts as England’s Chalice Well, where colored minerals seep from the ground, drawing pilgrims and seekers who imbue the place with ongoing spiritual meaning.

A few shared features connect most sacred springs:

• Physical uniqueness: Whether it’s color, taste, or mineral content, something sets each spring apart from everyday water sources.
• Healing reputation: Local folklore often claims these waters can cure illness, ease pain, or grant longevity. Across continents and centuries, the conviction remains that certain waters hold the power to heal body and soul.
• Ceremonial use: Many holy wells have been stages for weddings, sacrifices, rites of passage, or annual gatherings. Ritual use solidifies the spring’s identity as sacred ground.

For a broad look at these themes, reviewing Holy wells and sacred springs in a cross-cultural compendium helps set Licton Spring within a long human fascination with special waters.

Mirroring Myth and Meaning: Licton Spring and Its Global Kin

The story of Licton Spring, with its ochre pigment and ceremonial harvests, resonates deeply with the tales found at other holy wells. In Sweden, as found in the Swedish Sacred Skalla Springs, water sources were honored through both pre-Christian and Christian rituals. The tradition of naming and ‘christening’ springs to adapt them to new eras appears in many European settings, echoing how North American Indigenous springs survived through shifting times by holding firm to their stories.

In Wiltshire, England, springs have gathered folk tales about stars falling into water, wreathing wells in a mystical aura. These legends, described in the Seven Wiltshire Wells Folklore, illustrate how communities shape springs into sites of wonder and grief, hope and healing.

Licton Spring’s own sacred pigment, harvested for marriages and body art, is matched by European customs of taking water for sacramental use. Both traditions center on the sense that these places are not only physical points on the land, but spiritual intersections where meaning flows as surely as the water.

From Ancestral Waters to Modern Study

Modern researchers and enthusiasts continue to explore why humanity shares such an enduring connection with sacred water. The universal belief in the power of certain wells is highlighted in historical reviews such as The Secret of Long Life? It’s All in the Water: Sacred Springs and Holy Wells. These studies reveal how hopes for blessing, healing, or protection encourage communities to center life around springs through centuries of hardship and change.

Licton Spring remains part of this global story, a vessel for both matter and meaning. While it wears its heritage in ochre and ceremony, it stands with kindred springs worldwide as a witness to the recurring belief that some places pour forth not just water, but wonder, remedy, and story.

Conclusion

Licton Spring stands apart as an enduring source of both wonder and wisdom. For thousands of years, its mineral waters have marked sacred gatherings, painted rites of passage, and anchored the shared memory of the Duwamish people. This red spring is a living witness to how folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs can shape culture, identity, and spiritual life across the ages.

As pressures mount from the modern world, the story of Licton Spring carries a clear message: safeguarding places like this preserves more than the land itself; it upholds an entire legacy of tradition, healing, and community. Folklorists, archaeologists, and holy well enthusiasts are called not just to study, but to act as stewards; protectors of stories and sites that hold rare layers of meaning. Explore why these springs matter through the lens of About Holy Wells and Healing Springs, and consider how small acts of respect and awareness today can echo through generations.

Honoring folklore, holy wells, and sacred springs is not a backward glance but an ongoing promise; to value wisdom passed down, defend what is fragile, and let the sacred flow undiminished into tomorrow. Thank you for engaging with this journey; your attention helps keep these stories and springs alive. Share your own reflections or tales below; each voice helps protect what matters most. This is one way we protect these ancient resources, preservation by the knowledge and dissemination of wisdom.

Tobairin Holy Well
Coomanaspig, near the Cliffs of Kerry, County Kerry, Ireland

Just past the parking area of the Cliffs of Kerry, up the hill, along the Ring of Kerry, is a holy well and Mary shrine embedded into the hillside along the road just as you cross the mountain to St. Finian’s Bay. Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, sits the small well locally known as “Tobairin Holy Well.” It was stated to have been built in 1994 so is more modern than most of its counterparts across the Irish landscape. There are cross inscribed stones found around the well, which is a commonplace practice and offering by visiting pilgrims to the well and other similar Christian sacred sites. Small offerings are observed left by pilgrims and visitors, for devotion, respect, and prayer. This overlook has a stunning view of Valentia Island from the top of the Coomanaspig along this Seklligs ring road.   Directions: Portmagee along the Ring of Kerry, northwest on the R365, along the Skellig ring road, 4 kilometers on the right. Longitude: 10° 22′ 26″ W, Latitude: 51° 51′ 31″ N.

The inscription at the Base reads: Tobairin, Our Lady of Grace Coomanaspig, During the 1st Mass on Oct 31st 1994, concelebrated by
Fr. P Sugrue P.P & Fr. E. O’Carroll C.C., This grotto was opened & blessed on May 17th 1998 by Bishop of Kerry, Bishop Bill Murphy, concelebrated Mass to 500 people, with Fr. M Hussey P.P. & Fr. John Shanaan P.P. Erected Autumn 1994, thanks to generosity of many people. “May Our Lady bless you in your going, your coming and your staying, May she bless you in your thinking, your doing and your saying, May she bless you in your joys, and bless you when you weep, May she bless you in your waking, and bless you when you sleep
May she keep her arms around you, and fold you to her heart, Till you meet with her and Jesus, where you never more will part, Amen.”

References:

• HMDB.org  n.d.  Tobairin Holy Well. Website referenced 2/15/25 at https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=141169
• Ireland’s Holy Wells  n.d.  Tobairin Holy Well. Website referenced 2/15/25 at https://ihwcbc.omeka.net/exhibits/show/countykerry/countykerry
• Megalithic Ireland  n.d.   Tobairin Holy Well. Website referenced 2/16/25 at https://www.megalithicireland.com/Tobairin%20Holy%20Well%20,%20Coomanaspig,%20Kerry.html

URAGH STONE CIRCLE
GPS: 51.81157, -9.69532
Coordinates: 51°48′42.23″N 9°41′37.74″W
Map Ref: V8311763439
Discovery Map Number: D84
Latitude: 51.811550N Longitude: 9.695514W
near Gleninchaquin Park, Beara Peninsula, County Kerry, Ireland

While driving the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara, I spied on the maps a stone circle known as Uragh, so I decided to give it a gander. After a twisty country lane drive into the hills and farmlands, following signs to the off-the-map destination, I came to the gate—opened it up—and drove on in. Crossing a raging river with scenic overlooks of lakes and an astounding waterfall in the distance, the site was nothing more than enchanting.

The stone circle is atop a plateau above the valley overlooking Loch Inchiquinn, the other side of Cloonee Upper, and is surrounded by a ring of mountains. The 8′ diameter circle consists of approximately five low small megalith locally sourced sandstone stones (1.2-1.8 meters high) with a significant 3 meter high (approx. 10′) monolithic outlier standing stone. Two of the rocks are portal stones (one leaning outwards). The standing stone aligns the circle on a NE-SW axis. Center of the circle has been dug out potentially by looters, when it was looted is unknown. A low earthen bank surrounds the circle. The Irish Office of Public Works manages the site, which is open year-round, free of charge.

The circle dates to the Bronze Age. It is estimated to have been built between 3300-900 B.C.E. It is connected to a larger typology of stone circles commonly found in Brittany, Britain, and Ireland. These are often constructed of standing stones arranged in a circle. Many believe this was used for burials, religious or ceremonial purposes, and/or community gatherings. In Irish regional stone circles, this particular circle is representative of D-shaped stone circles found in this region, with the axial stone forming the line of the “D”. This specific circle is aligned with the Winter Solstice sunset.

Down the road and up a slippery slope is a famine cottage built into the hillside. It’s crazy to think how the poor during the Irish Famine had to live in such miserable conditions. I can’t even imagine the folkways and lore that surrounded these houses. This one evoked a feeling of somberness and solitude, and the ruins echoed that feeling.

References:

• Ancient Ireland 2024 Uragh Stone Circle And Lake Of Gleninchaquin. Ancient Ireland Tourism. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.ancientirelandtourism.com/uragh-stone-circle-and-lake-of-gleninchaquin/
• Bretgaunt 2021 Dancing stones and peeing giants: the folklore of ancient sites in Derbyshire. BUXTON MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://buxtonmuseumandartgallery.wordpress.com/2021/12/10/dancing-stones-and-peeing-giants-the-folklore-of-ancient-sites-in-derbyshire/#:~:text=Stone%20circles%20and%20standing%20stones%20were%20often%20the%20haunt%20of,otherworld%20and%20the%20fairy%20kingdom.
• Burgoyne, Mindie 2023 Drawn to the Mystery of Ireland’s Stone Circles. Website referenced 3/28/2024 at https://travelhag.com/stone-circles/
• 2011 Uragh Stone Circle on the Beara Peninsula – Enchanting. Thin Places Mystical Tours. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://thinplacestour.com/uragh-stone-circle/
• Byron, Susan 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Ireland’s Hidden Gems. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/uragh-stone-circle.html
• Clarice 2021 Uragh Stone Circle: Magical Ireland. Nourishing Ireland. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://nourishingireland.com/uragh-stone-circle-magical-ireland/
• Hannon, Ed 2020 Uragh Stone Circle, Kerry, Ireland. Visions of the Past. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://visionsofthepastblog.com/2020/07/22/uragh-stone-circle-kerry-ireland/
• Irish Archaeology 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://irisharchaeology.org/uragh-stone-circle/
• Megalithic 2024 Uragh NE – Stone Circle in Ireland (Republic of) in Co. Kerry. The Megalithic Portal. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=3528
• Larson, Celeste 2022 Reflections from Uragh Stone Circle, Ireland. Mage by Moonlight. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://magebymoonlight.com/uragh-stone-circle/
• Tripadvisor 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Trip Advisor. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g4045372-d8787688-Reviews-Uragh_Stone_Circle-Tuosist_County_Kerry.html
• Unknown 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Megalithic Ireland. Website referenced 3/28/24 at http://www.megalithicireland.com/Uragh%20Stone%20Circle.html
• Wikipedia 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Wikipedia. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uragh_Stone_Circle

Navajo Spring
Manitou Springs, Colorado, USA

Just off of Main Street in historic Manitou Springs, at the back of the popcorn and candy store in front of the amusement arcade, a natural soda spring comes out of the wall in a decorated font. It is one of eight famous natural springs that put this town on the map. The spring was initially visited by Native American Indians who sought their healing and spiritual powers, which some believed were gifted by the great spirit called Manitou.

They were then frequented by white Euro-American settlers, who pushed the tribes out and commercialized the area. Legend has it that the Utes placed a curse on all whites that the Westerners could never have a successful business in this place because of the commercialization of this particular spring. By the late 1880s, the Westerners built a large bathhouse and spa, as well as a bottling plant, on this former location but did not succeed. The waters, however, were famous throughout America at that time and place.

The spring waters are fissured through rock fractures from the rainwater and snowmelt from Pikes Peak. Water reaching the depths becomes heated and mineralized, flowing up through the Ute Pass fault zone into limestone caverns that carbonate them and are tapped into by natural springs or wells. Each spring in the area has its distinct taste and flavor. This particular spring originally had a bowl-like concretion of calcium carbonate large enough to dip or wash oneself in.

From 1871-1972, Chief Joseph Tafoya – Chief Joe “Little Deer” and his family came to this spot to do authentic Indian dances and songs from the Tewa tribe of the Pueblo Reservation of Santa Clara, New Mexico. In 1889, Jerome Wheeler built a 3 story bottling plant east of the arcade. He used these waters to bottle up to 5,000 gallons of water daily, selling it worldwide as table water for the famous non-alcoholic Giner Champagne. After the collapse of the plant, the spring fell into abuse and was restored in 1991 by Manitou’s residents and donors.

Navajo Spring: “Chief Joseph Tafoya – Chief Joe ‘Little Deer’ 1891-1972: Generations of the Tafoya family have presented authentic Indian dances and songs on this site and at the Manitou Cliff Dwellings Museum since 1925. The Tafoya Family Dancers are members of the Tewa tribe from the Pueblo Reservation of Santa Clara, New Mexico, and descendants of the ancient Puye Cliff Dwellers. For 15 years, Chief Joseph Little Deer served both as governor of the Santa Clara Reservation and Chairman for the All Pueblo Indian Council. He introduced a democratic form of government on the reservation, opened his home to orphaned Indian children, and worked tirelessly to improve the living conditions of his people. Chief Little Deer married Petra Suazo, a great niece of Cheif Manitou so named for his active promotion of Manitou Springs at the turn of the century. Chief Manitou danced for 20 summers at the Cliff Dwellings museum. Navajo Spring is one of the seven natural soda-type springs that led to the settlement of Manitou. The early French trappers named the bordering creek “Fountaine qui Bouille”, the Boiling Water. Mineral deposits containing large amounts of carbonate of lime created a natural basin where the Indians bathed their sick and wounded. The white mineral basin now is hidden under the arcade floor. In 1889, Jerome Wheeler built a 3-story bottling plant east of the arcade and used Navajo Spring for bottling up to 5000 gallons of water a day. The water was sold worldwide as table water of the popular non-alcoholic Ginger Champagne. Navajo Spring was restored in 1991 by generous assistance from various donors” ~ sign outside the Spring.

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Stratton Spring
Manitou Springs, Colorado

From the deep fissures of the Ute Pass Fault, where the rainwater and snowmelt of Pikes Peak meet and become heated and mineralized in the deep limestone caverns where they take thousands of years to make their way to the surface absorbing numerous minerals and nutrients as well as natural carbonation. Stratton Spring was a drilled source by the Stratton Foundation to serve the town where they felt it was located along earlier Native American trails.

_{“Stratton Spring was drilled in 1936 by the Myron Stratton Foundation., The soda-type spring has a controlled flow of two gallons per minute and is drilled to a depth of 167 feet. This site was the junction of early Indian trails and several major mineral springs. Later it became the major access to the Mount Manitou Incline and the Pikes Peak Cog Railway and was the loop were Stratton’s Trolley Line reversed to return to Colorado Springs. Winfield Scott Stratton was a carpenter and a building contractor in Colorado Springs. He tried his hand at prospecting and became the first millionaire from the Cripple Creek Gold Strike. Stratton died in 1902 and bequethed his fortune to the care of the county’s needy children and elderly. The Myron Stratton Foundation, named in honor of Winfield’s father, still continues to serve the public. Stratton Spring was restored in 1989 by a grant from the EL POMAR Foundation and volunteer assistance from citizens of Colorado. “}

_{~ sign outside the Spring. September 6, 2012: Manitou Springs, Colorado.}

The Mountain Ute would come through this pass alongside many other tribes to pay homage and be treated by the magical waters they believe were blessed by the Great Spirit Manitou. In the late 1880s, developers and Westerners pushed the tribes out of the valley. They began commercializing the healing waters with spas, bathhouses, and other commercial ventures, such as bottled water companies. This spring, one of 10 within Manitou Springs, was believed to have healing properties to treat TB and other illnesses.

This spring flows two gallons a minute of naturally carbonated soda-type spring water. The well was drilled to a depth of 167 feet. This Spring being drilled has little folklore besides its more modern healing attributes. It was drilled by Winfield Scott Stratton, a local carpenter and building contractor who lived in the area after trying his hand at prospecting during the Cripple Creek Gold Strike, which led him to become the first millionaire from that Gold Rush. He died in 1902 and willed his fortune to care for the county’s elderly and needy children through the Myron Stratton Foundation. The Spring was restored in 1989 through an EL POMAR Foundation grant and various volunteers and donors from the region.

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The Magical Mineral Springs of Manitou
~ 354 Manitou Ave, Manitou Springs, Colorado ~
Article by Thomas Baurley, Leaf McGowan, Techno Tink Research

The little touristy village of Manitou Springs is most famous for its mineral springs, which well up through eight fonts (previously ten fonts, upwards of 50 springs) peppered throughout the town. These springs are free to visit, and each holds its own variation of minerals, magic, folklore, and healing properties that visitors have sought throughout the ages. Each has its unique flavor, natural carbonation, and effervescence.

This valley was originally heavily frequented by various Native American tribes who visited Fountain Creek and its natural springs for their healing magic, offering homage and great respect to the spiritual powers that dwell here. They believed these magical springs were the gift of the Great Spirit Manitou, after which the town and valley were named. They brought their sick here for healing. The aboriginal inhabitants and visitors of the area called the “Great Spirit” as “Manitou”, and felt these mineral springs was its breath, as the source of the bubbles in the spring water. This made the waters and grounds extremely sacred.

The Ute, Arapaho, Cheyenne, and many other tribes came here to partake of the great spirit’s breath. They would heal their sick here, collect the waters, stay for winters, and share in the waters as an area of peace where no conflict was allowed. There were believed to have been ten natural springs in the valley. The Euro-Americans caused conflicts and skirmishes with the Natives, pushing them out so they could utilize the valley for business, resort, tourism, and commerce. It is said that after the Natives left, they cursed the area for the Whites and that no company would ever succeed there. Some believe Manitou Springs has since been an ever-changing valley with businesses coming and going, failing and closing, and new ones coming in and replacing those that left.

Stephen Harriman Long was one of the first white explorers to record the waters in 1820. The expedition’s botanist and geologist, Edwin James, detailed the healing nature of the waters. The explorer George Frederick Ruxton wrote in his travel about these “boiling waters” as well that “… the basin of the spring was filled with beads and wampum, pieces of red cloth and knives, while the surrounding trees were hung with strips of deer skin, cloth, and moccasins”. Throughout the world, it is a common practice to leave similar objects, items, and cultural artifacts around the world at magical and healing springs, wells, and bodies of water.

Nearly 50 years later, Dr. William Abraham Bell and General William Jackson Palmer made plans to develop a health resort here during the Civil War with “a vision of dreamy summer villas nestled in the mountains with grand hotels and landscaped parks clustered around the springs” that they called “Fountain Colony” and “La Font.” It became Colorado’s first resort town. By 1871, white settlers had begun developing the area for tourism, health care, and profit.

A resort was soon developed here, taking advantage of the waters and incorporating them into medicinal and healing water therapies. This brought great prosperity to the region. By 1873, a developer named Henry McAllister, who worked for Palmer, spread the news about the medicinal benefits of the Springs and pushed for it to become a spa resort with an “incomparable climate and scenery” as its backdrop.

Then came various medicinal practitioners, such as Doctor Edwin Solly, who pushed the area as a resort for healing and therapy. They preached that the combined waters to drink, soak in, and breathe pure air mixed with the sunny climate would be the most effective prescription to treat tuberculosis. The commercial businesses began to claim the various springs, enclosing some of them as the village grew.

The first was the Cheyenne Spring House, established as a red sandstone brick, conical-roof structure. Immediately after, over 50 wells and springs were drilled, many enclosed. Once popularity disappeared and “dried up,” many of these springs were capped, paved, and closed. However, as the fad died, medical centers and hospitals around the United States improved.

Manitou became forgotten and suffered abandonment. The Mineral Springs Foundation was formed in 1987 as an all-volunteer 501(c)3 non-profit to protect, improve, maintain, and manage the springs. It targets the restoration of some springs and promotes their popularity once again. The Foundation hosts walking tours called “Springabouts” every Saturday from Memorial Day to Labor Day, beginning downtown. Tours can be arranged by visiting the Tourist center or calling 719-685-5089.

Upon request, the visitor center will provide maps, brochures, detailed content charts, and sampling cups. They can also be found on their website at http://www.manitoumineralsprings.org. The series of springs has been developed as a National Register of Historic Places district and is located in one of the country’s largest districts of its kind. It was initially called the “Saratoga of the West” and established as a resort community within a spectacular setting at the edge of the Rocky Mountains along the base of Pikes Peak. Numerous bottling companies moved into the area, making a profit on the waters, the most famous of which was “Manitou Springs water” and was sold globally.

Geology: The waters come from two sources in the Rampart Range and Ute Pass: “deep-seated waters” that travel through limestone caverns and drainage systems created by karst aquifers. The water dissolves the limestone and absorbs carbonic acid, carbon dioxide, and other minerals, making it “effervescent” or slightly naturally carbonated. Volcanic and inner core processes heat it. Through time, the waters return to the surface naturally using an artesian process rising to the surface, collecting soda, minerals, and sodium bicarbonate upwards. The other sources of water are Fountain Creek and Williams Canyon, snow melt, rainwater, and surface waters.

The warm water then flows into a limestone cavern, where it becomes carbonated and springs forth to the surface in natural and human-drilled locations. Most of these waters take thousands of years to complete their voyage from the mountain snow-capped peaks down to the inner earth and back up to the surface, freeing their content and solutions from being affected by industry, development, and atmospheric contamination.

The Springs of Manitou:
https://wells.naiads.org/the-magic-and-minerals-of-manitou-springs/

• Cheyenne Spring – This natural sweet soda spring comes from limestone aquifers and is believed to be over 20,000 years old.
• Iron Spring – The Iron Spring is named after its harsh, foul, iron-tasting flavor and content. It was a man-made spring drilled in the 1800s and prescribed to patients for iron deficiency.
• Lithia / Twin Spring – This is a combined location of two man-made drilled springs—Twin Springs and Lithia Springs. It is popular for its Lithium content and sweet taste, calcium, lithium, and potassium content. It’s popular to mix it in lemonade.
• Navajo Spring is a natural soda spring over which commercial development was built. It is now within and beneath the popcorn and candy store. This was the most popular spring, frequented by Native Americans and early Euro-American settlers, and was the founding spring for the village. It originally fed a large bathhouse and bottling plant, bringing fame to the town.
• Old Ute Chief Spring – is a defunct spring outside the old Manitou Springs bottling plant.
• Seven Minute Spring – A man-made spring drilled in 1909 to enhance the neighboring hotel’s tourist attraction. Its unique carbonization caused it to erupt like a geyser every 7 minutes. It became dormant until the 1990s, when it was re-drilled, and the surrounding park was established.
• Shoshone Spring—This natural spring had sulfur content and was prescribed by various physicians for curative powers before modern medicine became popular and effective.
• Soda Spring – located in the spa stores next to the arcade.
• Stratton Spring—The Stratton Foundation created this man-made drilled spring as a service to Manitou Springs village, where tourists could come and partake of its waters. It is dedicated to early Native American Trails.
• Wheeler Spring—This is another man-made drilled spring donated to the city by settler Jerome Wheeler of the New York Macy’s. Wheeler resided and banked in the town during the mining and railroad period. His former home is located where the current post office is today.

References:

• Gazette 2015 “List Manitou Springs”. Website referenced 12/21/16 at http://gazette.com/list-the-springs-of-manitou-springs/article/1565225.
• Harrison, Deborah 2003 “Manitou Springs”. Arcadia Publishing. ISBN 978-0-7385-2856-4.
• Manitou Springs Chamber of Commerce 2012 “The History of Manitou Springs”.
• Mineral Springs Foundation 2013 “Mineral Springs”. Website referenced 12/21/16 at http://www.manitoumineralsprings.org
• Manitou Mineral Springs 2015 “7 Minute Spring”. Website referenced 12/21/16 at http://manitoumineralsprings.org/7-minute-spring.html
• National Register 2013 “American Dreams – National Register of Historic Places in El Paso County, Colorado.
• Visit Colorado Springs 2016 “Manitou Mineral Springs”. Website referenced 12/21/16 at http://www.visitcos.com/manitou-mineral-springs.
• Wikipedia 2016 “Manitou Springs Mineral Springs”. Website referenced 12/21/16 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manitou_Mineral_Springs

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The Hag of Beara Stone or An Chailleach Bhéara
by Thomas Baurley, Folklorist and Archaeologist, Techno Tink, LLC
https://technowanderer.com/hag-of-beara-stone/
https://technotink.net/photography/?p=14442
https://archaeologyfinds.com/?p=305

Ring of Beara, County Kerry/County Cork, Ireland

Driving the Ring of Beara in West Cork/County Kerry, Ireland I came across the infamous “Hag of Beara” stone – also known as An Chailleach Bhéara or the White nun of Beara, The Cailleach, “Hag”, “Old Crone”, or Old Woman of Dingle. In Irish lore, she is known as the Cally Berry or Cailleach Bheara.  

This boulder is a fabled petrified stone of the Divine Hag or Cailleach, the Irish Goddess of Winter. The Queen of Winter.  Of course my visit to her was a rainy cold winter day and very tributing to that connutation.

Beara is also connected with the other Goddess/ poetesses: Brigit, Liadan, and Uallach.  She is seen as one of Ireland’s oldest aspects of the Great Goddess trinity, alongside younger incarnations as a maiden and mother. She is sometimes called the second side or winter half of the Goddess Brigid. She is said to rule the months between Samhain (around Nov 1^st) until Beltane (around May 1^st), while Brigid rules the summer months.  She is described to be an old crone who brings winter with her when she appears and wields powers over life and death. She could control the weather and many of her worshippers had a mixture of reverence with fear in tribute and respect for outcomes of their winter crops. She is the bringer of winter, goddess of Destruction, Goddess of Creation, and the weather witch.

Said to have been born on Samhain in the “Teach Mor” or Great House in what is now known as “Tivore” on the  Dingle peninsula in county Kerry. Her house was known as “the house farthest west in Ireland.” Cailleach Bheara was originally named “Boi” a variant of the word for a cow “‘bó’”.  The ‘Oileán Baoi’ (Boi Island), or Dursey Island, was named after her maiden image of “Bo”.  She is known as a Goddess of Creation, nick-named the hag or hooded one, and is a special Deity to the Beara Peninsula of County Cork, Ireland which her Beara name is associated. She is described as having worn a hood or a veil given to her by Saint Cummine for a hundred years. She welcomed the winter weather every winter in this area overlooking the sea. Imprisoned as petrified to stone for centuries past and to come. She holds special attribution to the countryside of County Cork (elder age) and County Kerry (childhood). Rumored to be a mother or foster mother to ancestors of many clans in these counties, including Corca Loighdhe and Corca Dhuibhne.  She has been referenced as either being the wife or daughter of Manannan Mac Lir, the Irish God of the Sea. It is said she had seven periods of youth one after another, that every man that lived with her died of old age and is why her descendants are many, making up entire tribes and races extending from Ireland to Scotland. She was also said to have had many lovers, including the Fenian warrior “Fothad Donainne”.

Originally a Pagan Deity, she was intermingled into Christian mythology with the arrival of Saint Caithighearn, who came to Kilcatherine and the surrounding area preaching Christianity. Caithighearn was seen as a threat to the Hag of Beara.  Cailleach never related to Christian wisdom but was curious about it for its threat to her. It is said that after a day of food gathering on the peninsula, the hag returned to Kilcatherine to find the saint asleep, approached her, and stole her prayer book. A cripple nearby saw this theft and awoke the Saint who saw the Hag running away. As the saint ran after her, caught up with her in Ard na Cailli, she took the prayer book back and turned the hag to stone with her back to the hill and face the sea. This is the “Hag of Beara” stone, which I visited on this rainy day of December 19th, 2023. I could feel the sorrow, the loneliness, the solitude, and the magic surrounding the stone. I could also feel the rumored “warmth” and inner dampness of the stone, which is said to remain moist despite the warmth of summer months because of the life force it contains. In her youth, she was called the “Daughter of the Sun,” and she was powerful during the summer months and weakened towards the winter months.  By spring, she loses her strength, overcome by the powers of the Spring Equinox.   She is said to visit a hidden Well of Youth that she drinks from as the sun rises, and this is how she transforms into the young, beautiful Bride or Brigid Goddess, her other half.

The Scottish also honor and tribute the Cailleach as a mother of all Gods and Goddesses in Scotland, as powerful as most Gaelic myths profess her to be. There, she is often called the Cailleach Bheur, Beira, or Carlin. She is said to predate Celtic Mythology. She has existed “from the long eternity of the world.”   Some have placed her in the realms of the Fomorians and Titans, but that is another tale.  Some have quoted her as a Spanish princess named Beara, and others have attributed her to being a bastardized version of Kali, the great Hindu Goddess brought to Britain by Indian immigrants. She is internationally seen as a crone Goddess, dressed in grey with dun-colored plaid wrapped around her shoulders, with faces wan and blue like a corpse with long white or grey hair speckled with frost. A single eye in the center of her forehead, a being who can see beyond this world and into the next – and likened to the Fomorians because of this depiction. She sometimes appears in myth wearing an apron or a creel strapped to her back and carrying a wooden staff. Other sources describe the staff as a wand or hammer, potentially a shillelagh or walking stick/club made from the wood of the blackthorn tree associated with the crone and witches. Some say we get the modern depiction of the hagly witch in our Halloween imagery as that from the Cailleach. She is well known through the mythology and legends of the British Isles.

The British called her the Black Annis and the Cailleach ny Groamch or Cailleach Groarnagh on the Isle of Man. Other names for her are said to be the Blue Hag of Winter, Bone Mother, Woman of Stones, Cailleach Nollaig (The Christmas old wife), and Cailleach Mhor Nam Fiadh (the great old woman of the deer), and Cailleach Beinne Breac (old woman of the speckled mountain).

One Scottish legend is Cailleach as the winter Goddess ushering in the cold and dark winter months beginning at Samhain, keeping the lands cold until Imbolc (St Brigid Day). It is said on Samhain that she goes to the Corryvreckan whirlpool just north of the Isle of Jura to wash her great plaid. When the plaid emerges from the clean and shining white waters, she uses it to cover Scotland in a blanket of snow. Through winter, she walks the land, striking the ground and trees with her staff, crushing any sign of growth appearing.

In one myth, she imprisons the young virginal Brid, the personification of Spring, inside Ben Nevis on Samhain. Her son Angus, King of Summer, learns about Brid’s imprisonment in a dream and consults the king of the Green Isle for her whereabouts – the king replies, “The fair princess whom you saw is Brid, and in the days when you will be king of summer, she will be your queen. Your mother has full knowledge of this, and she wishes to keep you away from Brid so that her reign may be prolonged.”   He then sets out seeking his beloved and frees her from the confines of the mountain on the eve of Imbolc. Once the Cailleach learns of this, She immediately chases after the couple, and a great fight ensues. The battle continues through the night until Cailleach escapes her son’s potentially fatal blow by turning her into a standing stone – the Hag of Beara. She is to remain in that form until the following Samhain where she will appear again to usher in the winter and imprison Brid within Ben Nevis as an eternal cycle of light and dark, changing of the seasons, and fertility of the land.

In the Carmina Gadelica, Alexander Carmichael refers to Cailleach as “the first week of April, represented as a wild hag with a venomous temper, hurrying about with a magic wand on her withered hand, switching the grass and keeping down the vegetation to the detriment of man and beast. When, however, the grass upborne by the warm sun, the gentle dew, and the fragrant rain overcomes the “Cailleach,” she flies into a terrible temper, throwing her wand into the roots of a whin bush, and disappears in a whirling cloud of angry passion til the beginning of April comes again.”

Another Pagan tale is that she encountered two huntsmen while transformed into a deer. She appears to them as the crone and points them toward the best hunting grounds, and the two young men kill an immense stag they drag home to their father. Upon reaching the cottage, the stag disappears, and the father scolds them for not having the meat as the Cailleach had instructed and let the fairies take it from them. She is associated with various creatures, including birds found in Ireland. She, in particular, is associated with the deer she safeguards, wolves, black cats, wild cattle, and goats.

She is also written as the narrator for “The Lament of the Hag of Beara,” an Irish medieval poem in which she bitterly laments the passing of her youth and her decrepit old age. She is also written about in the collection of stories within the Great Book of Lecan which is dated approximately 1400 C.E. In the 12th century, she is named the White Nun of Beare in the Vision of Mac Conglinne. In the Lament of the Hag of Beara, she narrates a world ruled by the flow and ebb of the sea tide, with the turn of which life will dwindle, as with the coming tide, it waxes to its full powers and energy, according to folklorist Eleanor Hull in the interpretation of the medieval poem. The Hag of Beara somberly reminisces about their youth when she drank mead and wine with kings and now lives a lonely abandoned life amongst the “gloom of a prayer” and “shriveled old hags.”  This is befitting for my journey here this week as I myself embrace the onsets of “old age” still working through my divinity from youth to father to old man. I embrace a solitary Winter Solstice holiday and solitude averse to my younger wild parties and adventurous days. I sat, peering over the Bay from her stone, contemplating my state of being and aging as I feel its effects on my body.

I am the Hag of Beare,
An ever-new smock I used to wear;
Today—such is my mean estate—-
I wear not even a cast-off smock.

The maidens rejoice
When May-day comes to them,
For me, sorrow is meeter,
I am wretched; I am an old hag.

Amen! Woe is me!
Every acorn has to drop.
After feasting by shining candles
To be in the gloom of a prayer.

I had my day with Kings,
Drinking mead and wine;
Today, I drink whey water
Among shriveled old hags.

~ excerpts from a 1919 translation by Lady Augusta Gregory, Trinity College, Dublin.

According to mythology, she dropped or threw stones from her apron as she passed around Ireland through Scotland. Each of these stones grew into rock formations or mountains associated with her, which are recognizable places of worship for her tribute and prayers. Her name, “Boi,” gave rise to the Oilean Baoi or Dursey Island located at the tip of the Beara peninsula, said to be her home.

She has several landmarks attributed to her throughout Ireland, Scotland, and the British Isles, such as the (1) Hag’s Head in County Clair, the Ceann Cailli rock formation on the southernmost point of the Cliffs of Moher, Co. Claire. (2) the “Hag of Beara” Rock chair, a natural boulder in Kilcatherine, Beara, Co. Cork claimed to be her fossilized remains on a chair which she sits overlooking the sea awaiting Manannan mac Lir, the God of the Sea, sometimes defined as her husband or father. (3) Sliabh na Cailli or “The Hag’s Mountain” in County Meath. (4)  This stone here, the “Hag of Beara” – a large rock overlooking Coulagh Bay, close to Eyeries in County Cork, represents her face turned to stone as she stared out to sea, awaiting for Manannan mac Lir to return to her. It’s the (5) Beinn na Caillich on the Isle of Skye in Scotland.  (6) The scarred path down the side of Schiehallion bears her name, Sgriob na Calliach, or “furrows of the Cailleach,” where she lost footing and slid down the mountain. (7) the Ailsa Craig supposed was created from a dropped boulder when a fisherman sailed his boat underneath the Cailleach, and the sail of his boat brushed the inside of her thigh, frightening her and causing her to drop the boulder. (8) the Cailleach stone on Gigha and (9) the Callanais stones on the Isle of Lewis. (10) Loch Awe on the banks of Ben Cruachan was a great well on the summit from which the Cailleach drew her water daily; it was covered by a heavy stone slab; this slab was to be replaced by sunset or the water inside the well would spill out and flood the world – one tiring evening she removed the stone slab to draw her water. She sat down to rest before walking home. Exhausted, she fell into a deep sleep on the hillside, and the water tumbled from the well in vast torrents and streamed down the mountainside – the roar of water awoke her. She quickly replaced the slab in enough time to prevent the world from being flooded, but the once fertile Vale of Tempe got covered and became Loch Awe.

(11) The House of the Cailleach, Taigh na Cailleach at the head of Glen Lyon, is situated by Glen Cailleach and is seen as a shrine to her for hundreds if not thousands of years involving a Beltane rite where the stones stacked at its entrance were removed, roof freshly thatched, and a family of water-worn stones resembling figures of the Cailleach, the Bodach (old man), and the Nighean (daughter) were brought outside for the summer months. Samhain placed the stones back inside the house before the entrance was sealed until the next summer when the rite repeated. Some say that the (12) Megalithic tombs at Carrowmore were created from stones falling from her apron. (13) The same is true of the passage tombs on the Coolera Peninsula outside of Sligo. (The stones that created these were supposedly collected by the Cailleach from the megalithic tombs at Lough crew) (14), and in the Dartry Mountains, there is even the Cailleach’s house. I’ve been to this house, and it resonates so well with her legend.

At each location, pilgrims, visitors, spiritualists, and tourists often leave coins, clooties, and other offerings for her tribute and request prayers. It is said that she is the stone “Hag of Beara” when she presides over the winter months, but come summer, when Brigid rules, she transforms back into her human shape on Samhain.

She is celebrated on various feast days, including February 1^st, the Feast Day of St. Bridgit, the day the Cailleach is supposed to transfer her power to Bridgit, who brings forth the spring and summer months. Suppose this day (also known as Groundhog’s Day in the Americas) has favorable weather. In that case, this is taken as a bad omen that the Cailleach can collect extra firewood and draw the winter out, but if the weather is bad, the Cailleach will remain asleep, and winter will be shortened. Some associate this with the American celebration of Groundhog’s Day and determination if we’ll have a longer winter or an earlier spring. The American spinoff is about a bad weather day, limiting the collection of firewood to whether or not the groundhog sees his shadow based on the weather of the day.

March 25^th in Scotland is the Latha na Cailliche (Day of the Old Woman), which celebrates the transition of winter into summer. This was also the atypical “New Year’s Day” in Scotland until it changed to the present attribution of January 1^st during the 17^th century. Competitions and festivities were often held on this day to see who could drive the winter hag away. During Beltane celebrations, around May 1^st, on the Isle of Man, many competitions occur where staged battles between summer and winter take place, with summer always triumphing.

Location: Traveling from Ardgroom to Eyeries along the Beara Way Cycle route or Ring of Beara, follow south past the Kilcatherine Church. It is on the right side overlooking Coulagh Bay and is marked by a signpost. There is limited parking available. It’s a small walk down the hill. During winter, it is wet and boggy, so I recommend wellies.

References:

• Augusta, Lady Gregory 1919 The Kiltartan Poetry Book. G. Putnam’s: New York.
• Daly, Eugene 2021 “The Hag of Beara” from the westcorkpeople.ie website referenced 5/9/24 at https://westcorkpeople.ie/columnists/the-hag-of-beara/.
• Fergus  2017  “The Cailleach Beara or the Hag of Beara.”  The Irish Place. Website referenced 6/9/24 at https://www.theirishplace.com/heritage/the-cailleach-beara-or-the-hag-of-beara/.
• Hull, Eleanor  1927   “Legends and Traditions of the Cailleach Bheara or Old Woman (Hag) of Beare”. Folklore, Vo 38, no 3, Sept 30, 2937. Pgs 225-254.
• Monumental Ireland  2024  An Chailleach Bhearra – the Hag of Beara.  Monumental Ireland website, referenced 6/9/24 at https://monumentalireland.ie/the-hag-of-beara/.
• O’Sullvan, Leanne   2013   “On the Beara Peninsula: Written in Stone.” New Hibernia Review: Iris Éireannach Nua, Volume 17, No. 3 2013. pp. 9–14
• Rainbolt, Dawn   2017  “Irish Folklore, Myths & Legends: The Hag of Beara” in Wilderness Ireland. Website referenced 6/9/24 at https://www.wildernessireland.com/blog/hag-beara-irish-myths-legends/.
• Wee White Hoose  2021  “Older than Time: The Myth of the Cailleach, the Great Mother”. Website referenced 6/9/24 at https://weewhitehoose.co.uk/study/the-cailleach/.
• Wikipedia  2024   “The Hag of Beara” Wikipedia article referenced 6/9/24 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hag_of_Beara.
• Yeats, W.B.  1964  “Modern Ireland: An Address to American Audiences, 1932-1933.” The Massachusetts Review, Vo. 5, no 2, 1964.
• Zucchelli, Christine 2016  Sacred Stones of Ireland, Cork: Collins Press, 2016.

Ballycrovane Ogham Stone or Beara Ogham Stone
(Béal A’Chorraigh Bháin)
Co. Cork, Southern Ireland
Irish grid ref: V 6569 5291

At this point in my journey, I was bouncing between West Cork and County Kerry, so I apologize for any content stating that this standing stone is in Kerry – it’s in West Cork. As I spied on the map, an Ogham Stone was outside of the Ballycrovane quay, so I took a gander. It is in the backyard of a private cottage with very few parking places without blocking the residents. They have an iron gate with a 2 Euro donation box to wander up to see the stone firsthand. It is a massive pointed granite monolith atop a hillock overlooking the Ballycrovane Harbour, standing approximately 17 feet tall. The Ogham inscription purports to say, “Son of Deich descendant of Torainn” (MAQUI DECCEDDAS AVI TURANIAS). There is also a modern national monument declaration plaque below.

The monument is a carved thin pillar-stone tall granite standing stone with an estimated age of over 2,000 years before the present. It is across the Ballycrovane Quay / Kenmare Bay from the Hag of Beara along the Ring of Beara on the Beara Peninsula. It is a few hundred yards southeast of the “Faunkill and the Woods” road and the coastguard station. This has been stated to be the tallest Ogham stone in Ireland and possibly Europe at 17 feet (5.3 meters), with another approximately several feet below the ground. The Ogham inscription is at the eastern edge, which is hard to see due to weathering.

The language Ogham was known as the only written language of the early Celts, a mnemonic device with an alphabetic interpretation that existed pre-Roman times until approximately the 5th century C.E. The script consists of a series of short notches or strokes carved vertically and slanting on the edges in other instances. A Latin translation of Ogham is believed to have allowed scholars to read the Ogham script alphabet. It is 30 letters of straight lines and notches carved on the edge of a piece of stone or wood, divided into four categories of five sounds. These symbols are found mainly on standing stones, though examples on wood and above lintels also exist. Most Ogham is found in Ireland (heavy in southern Ireland), but others are found in Great Britain, the Isle of Man, Cornwall, Scotland, and Wales.

Sources:

Ancient Stones 2012 Hags, Cats, and Stones on the Beara Peninsula. Website http://ancientstones.blogspot.com/2012/02/drumlave-stones-with-hungry-hill-in.html referenced 5/13/24.

Iles, Susanne 2007 The Ring of Beara Blog: Ballycrovane Ogham Stone. Website referenced https://ringofbeara.wordpress.com/2007/11/03/ballycrovane-ogham-stone/ on 5/13/24.

Journal of Antiquities. Website referenced https://thejournalofantiquities.com/2014/09/07/ballycrovane-ogham-stone-co-cork-southern-ireland/ on 5/13/24.

Oxford Press 1998 Dictionary of Celtic Mythology, Oxford University Press, New York, 1998.

Readers Digest 1992 Illustrated Guide to Ireland. The Reader’s Digest Association Limited, London.

Roaring Water 2014 Ballycrovane Ogham Stone. Website https://roaringwaterjournal.com/tag/ballycrovane-ogham-stone/ referenced on 5/13/24.

Scherman, Katherine 1981 The Flowering Of Ireland, Victor Gollancz Ltd., London.

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by Thomas Baurley, Archaeologist and Folklorist

Stone Circles can be found worldwide but are most notorious in the British, Irish, and Scottish landscapes. Stones can be small, medium, and large, often dug into the ground as deep as they rise above the ground. A Stone Circle is a circular ring of stones, often with a defined entrance between two stones, with arrangements often related to the path of the rising and setting sun or the moon at sacred times of the year or in geographic alignment with other sites, hills, and circles.

Uragh Stone Circle and Famine Cottage, County Kerry, Ireland

Generally, however, stone circles are believed to be used by ancient peoples for magic, ritual, religion, astronomy, burials, and gatherings. Some have been used as tombs. In all reality, most of them do not know the true purpose as most stone circles belong to past people who did not leave behind written explanations or histories. Some stones have been inscribed with symbols, Ogham, and inscriptions. Much of what has been written about stone circles is from antiquarians, mystics, anthropologists, archaeologists, historians, and religious zealots. Generally, they are believed to have been used for multiple purposes – most commonly thought were religious or ceremonial, burials, and community gatherings.

Many stone circles have been recorded to possess lunar and solar alignments or astrological mapping. Some have called them solar and lunar observatories used by the ancients. Often, they are primarily a circular geometry with usually an empty center. Though altar, sacrificial, or standing stones are found in the center of many. Stones in Britain, Scotland, and Ireland have been recorded and estimated to have been erected roughly 3000-2500 B.C.E. (Before the common era) during the Middle Neolithic (3700-2500 B.C.E.). Others are dated to the Late Neolithic and the Bronze Age.

They were abundantly built in coastal and lowland areas, especially in the northern part of what is now known as the United Kingdom. Stonehenge and Avebury are the most famous European stone circles, built around 3100 BCE. There have been recorded over 1303 stone circles in Ireland, Brittany, and Britain. Largest numbers were found in Scotland at 508 sites, 316 in England, 187 in Ireland, 156 in Northern Ireland, 81 in Wales, 49 in Brittany, and 6 in the Channel Islands.

The oldest stone circle, however, is the Gobekli Tepe in Anatolia, Turkey, estimated to be approximately 9,000-12,000 years old. In Europe, stone circles are often attributed to having been built by Druids. There is faint realism there; however, although celebrants of Druidic religions have built many stone circles (even modern ones), the most notorious historic circles are pre-Celtic and pre-Druid. Still, they may have been taken over through time by those of the Druid faith. Many modern-day Pagans claim them as their spiritual centers, as many are tied to the Equinoxes and Solstices. Outside of modern recreated stone circles like Maryhill Stonehenge, there does exist indigenous stone circles even in the United States – such as the Ellis Hollow Stone Circle in Ithaca, New York, which is located in a nature preserve, consisting of 13 standing stones arranged in a circle about 30′ in diameter. It is believed to have been placed there by people from the Late Woodland period around 1000 B.C.E.

Mythology and Folklore
In British and Irish folklore and legend, stone circles are notorious for being the haunt of faeries. Some say they are remnants of people turned to stone for dancing during the Equinoxes, Solstices, or Sabbaths. Burial mounds at, in, or near them are believed to be entrances to the Otherworld or the Land of the Fae. Most stone circles, especially in Europe, have supernatural tales associated with them, ranging from sightings of beings varying from Druids, Witches, Banshees, Hobs, Giants, boggarts, leprechauns, spectral figures, and phantom black doors on the moors.

Many artifacts have been found associated with stone circles from religious, ceremonial, habitation, and/or burial. Prehistoric lithics, flints, and stone weapons are often found around these circles. In European lore, these lithics were often called Elf Shot and believed to have been made by Elves that were fired at humans in the past.

References:

• Ancient Ireland 2024 Uragh Stone Circle And Lake Of Gleninchaquin. Ancient Ireland Tourism. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.ancientirelandtourism.com/uragh-stone-circle-and-lake-of-gleninchaquin/
• Bretgaunt 2021 Dancing stones and peeing giants: the folklore of ancient sites in Derbyshire. BUXTON MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://buxtonmuseumandartgallery.wordpress.com/2021/12/10/dancing-stones-and-peeing-giants-the-folklore-of-ancient-sites-in-derbyshire/#:~:text=Stone%20circles%20and%20standing%20stones%20were%20often%20the%20haunt%20of,otherworld%20and%20the%20fairy%20kingdom.
• Burgoyne, Mindie 2023 Drawn to the Mystery of Ireland’s Stone Circles. Website referenced 3/28/2024 at https://travelhag.com/stone-circles/
• 2011 Uragh Stone Circle on the Beara Peninsula – Enchanting. Thin Places Mystical Tours. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://thinplacestour.com/uragh-stone-circle/
• Byron, Susan 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Ireland’s Hidden Gems. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/uragh-stone-circle.html
• Clarice 2021 Uragh Stone Circle: Magical Ireland. Nourishing Ireland. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://nourishingireland.com/uragh-stone-circle-magical-ireland/
• Hannon, Ed 2020 Uragh Stone Circle, Kerry, Ireland. Visions of the Past. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://visionsofthepastblog.com/2020/07/22/uragh-stone-circle-kerry-ireland/
• Irish Archaeology 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. website referenced 3/28/24 at https://irisharchaeology.org/uragh-stone-circle/
• Megalithic 2024 Uragh NE – Stone Circle in Ireland (Republic of) in Co. Kerry. The Megalithic Portal. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=3528
• Larson, Celeste 2022 Reflections from Uragh Stone Circle, Ireland. Mage by Moonlight. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://magebymoonlight.com/uragh-stone-circle/
• Tripadvisor 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Trip Advisor. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g4045372-d8787688-Reviews-Uragh_Stone_Circle-Tuosist_County_Kerry.html
• Unknown 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Megalithic Ireland. Website referenced 3/28/24 at http://www.megalithicireland.com/Uragh%20Stone%20Circle.html
• Wikipedia 2024 Uragh Stone Circle. Wikipedia. Website referenced 3/28/24 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uragh_Stone_Circle

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by Thomas Baurley: 19 February 2024

Mass Rocks: Generally, a “Mass Rock” was used as an altar in the mid-17th century for Catholic masses in Ireland and Scotland or regions where the Protestants persecuted the Catholics. In Irish they were called Carraig an Aifrinn. These were popular occurrences during the Penal times (the 1690s to 1750s AD) (or 1690-1750 C.E.). England’s King Henry VIII started a massive religious persecution of the Catholic Church in Ireland, forbidding Catholics from holding mass. This ended during the Catholic Emancipation of 1829 CE. During this time, the Irish Catholics “clung to the Mass, crossed themselves when they passed Protestant ministers on the road, had to be dragged into Protestant churches and put cotton wool in their ears rather than listen to Protestant sermons,” stated Marcus Tanner in his 2004 book “Last of the Celts.”

As a result of persecution, clergy and their congregations sought out remote, hidden, isolated locations to hold mass and other ceremonies to observe Catholic Mass. Many of these locations were marked by large stones with etchings of a cross marked into them. It was extremely risky to be caught practicing during the persecution, resulting in harm, especially during Cromwell’s campaign and the Penal Law 1695. Under the 1704 Registration Act, Bishops were banished, and priests had to register to preach. “Priest hunters” were employed and set out upon the countryside to arrest unregistered priests and Presbyterian preachers under the Act of 1709.

The Penal Act made laws and enforcements based on:

• Restrictions on how Catholic children were educated
• Bans on Catholics holding public office
• Bans on Catholics serving in the Army
• Bans on Catholics voting
• Bans of Catholics inheriting Protestant lands
• Bans on celebration of Catholic Mass
• Execution or Expelling Catholic clergy from the country
• Taking Catholic land and distributing it amongst British Lords
• Dividing inherited lands equally between children to reduce land size held by individual Catholics

The Mass Rocks of Ireland

Again, while some occurrences are found in other places in the Western World with archaeological cross glyph remnants of crosses etched into stones, the “Mass Rock” concept is primarily found in Ireland and some occurrences in Scotland. It is defined as a “rock or earth-fast boulder used as an altar or stone-built altar used when Mass was being celebrated during the Cromwellian period (1650’s) and Penal times (1690-1750), with a recurrent use during the Covid-19 pandemic of 2020-2022. Many of these rocks/boulders often possess a inscribed or scratched/etched cross into the stone. (Archaeological Survey Database of Ireland) These are found in isolated places where religious ceremonies such as the Catholic Mass would be celebrated by the congregations, often in secret. Starting with Oliver Cromwell’s decimation of Ireland followed by William the III’s victories at the Boyne and Limerick under the Penal Laws, it was a dangerous time for the Catholics.

The infamous “Cathedral Cave” at the Isle of Eigg in Scotland is a good example. In 1698, the Inner Hebrides was predominantly Catholic, and the laity secretly attended mass at a Mass stone inside a large high-roofed coastal cave known as “the cave of worship.” These sites, too, have “mass stones” or “mass rocks” called Clachan Ìobairt, meaning “Offering Stones.”. These are remnants from when Roman Catholic priests were outlawed in Scotland.

Mass rocks had symbols of the cross either carved, scratched, or drawn upon them. Sometimes, a stone would be taken from a church ruin, brought to an isolated location, and have a simple cross carved at its top. This would mark the location of these secret masses.

Often held at night, the celebrants would trek out to the Mass rock in darkness with the clergy. They would kneel on the ground before the mass rock while others stood guard. A curtain was often drawn around the makeshift altar upon which a book, tablecloth, wine, water, and bread would be placed. The curtain would hide the identity of the person offering the Eucharist.

In addition to remote locales in the woods, cross-etched stones can be found at holy wells and graveyards, other locations where mass was found to be held.

Much historical and urban lore is associated with mass rocks, ranging from miracles to ghost stories. In the story of the widow’s hunger, cures, miracles, and protestant neighbors hiding or helping priests, the priest cannot stop for any reason with mass, or they’d follow in the tragic death of being shot or killed at the moment of transubstantiation. According to author Tony Nugent, the last Roman Catholic Priest to be killed at a mass rock was in 1829 at Inse an tSagairt, near Bonane in County Kerry. He states in his 2013 book Were You at the Rock? The History of Mass Rocks in Ireland that the priest was captured by a local woman and her five accomplices who ran a nearby shebeen splitting the 45-pound bounty. They beheaded him at a house near Kenmare, taking his decapitated head to Cork, and were denied the award because the Catholic Emancipation had just been signed into law, so they threw the head into the River Lee.

By the late 17th century, many were moved into thatched Mass houses. The Archaeological Survey of Ireland maintains a database for pre-1700 sites, and the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage maintains one for post-1700 sites. In 1979, the Pope recognized the importance of Mass Rocks as a historical reminder of the past persecutions that the Irish faced. After these outdoor sites stopped hosting open-air masses, they continued to have some use for pattern days and Christmas. Many of these sites were re-used when the 2020-2022 COVID-19 pandemic outlawed indoor gatherings, so many returned to mass rocks to celebrate mass. They are often used today for celebrations and Mass. Today, it is commonplace to find celebrations at Mass Rocks on June 20th for the Feast of the Irish Martyrs.

Mass Rock Sites:

Pike Woods Mass Rock, County Kerry, Ireland
A 23-hectare compact wood on the outskirts of Killarney, County Kerry, Ireland. Within a mature stand of mixed conifer and deciduous trees such as Sessile Oak, Ash, and Scots pine. Woodford River flows through Pike Wood, creating a microclimate that encourages numerous plant species to grow and critters to dwell. A “Mass Rock” can be found midway through the forest as an early 16th-17th century location for secret Catholic Masses. The 3d model sketch fab of the rock is here: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/mass-rock-killarney-pike-wood-598a95e5c6814bd189e359646eec6726

REFERENCES:

• ACN Ireland undated “Ireland’s Mass Rocks”. Website referenced 2/19/24 at https://www.acnireland.org/journal/2021/5/27/irelands-mass-rocks#:~:text=Mass%20Rocks%20were%20in%20heavy,true%20to%20the%20Catholic%20Faith.
• Campbell, John 1984 “Canna: The Story of a Hebridean Island”. Oxfor University Press, p 91-92.
• Coillte undated Pike Wood. Website referenced 2/19/24 at https://www.coillte.ie/site/pike-wood/
• Ireland Lore undated “Mass Rocks of Ireland”: Ireland’s Lore and Tales. Website referenced 2/19/24 at https://irelandsloreandtales.wordpress.com/2021/03/29/mass-rocks-of-ireland/comment-page-1/
• MacLellan, Angus 2004 The Furrow Behind Me, Birlinn Limited. Pages 25-26. 42-43, 196-198.
• NMS undated Historic Environment Viewer: National Monument Service, “Mass Rocks”.
• Nugent, Tony 2013 “Were You at the Rock? The History of mass Rocks in Ireland.” Liffy Press. pg 152-154, 258.
• Power, Denis 1992 Archaeological Inventory of County Cork, Vol 3: Mid Cork, 1997, Duchas The Heritage Society.
• Sketchfab.com 2001 Mass Rock – Kilarney, Pike Wood 3D model. Website referenced 2/19/24 at https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/mass-rock-killarney-pike-wood-598a95e5c6814bd189e359646eec6726
• Tanner, Marcus 2004 The Last of the Celts. Yale University Press.
• The Tablet 2021 “How Mass Rocks are renewing the faith in Ireland”. thetablet.co.uk: The International Catholic News Weekly.
• Wikipedia undated “Mass Rock”. Wikipedia. website referenced 2/19/24 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_rock