12.19.23: County Kerry, Mythic Landscape

Taking the N22 west/southwest into Kerry, I saw a billboard advertisement for “the Shire” pub and hostel in Killarney, so I decided to take a gander. What an intriguing place! I got a parking garage in downtown Killarney and walked down the street. The hostel was shuttered, but the pub/cafe was open. Quaint and friendly, I had the salmon benedict and a cup of tea. Afterward, I walked around the pub, wandering at the Lord of the Rings memorabilia.

Lord of the Rings inspired Pub “The Shire” in Killarney, Ireland

After an excellent breakfast, I took a jaunt around downtown Killarney and then returned to the highway. I saw signs for the environmentally enchanting scenic Ring of Kerry route through the Gap of Dunloe and decided to take a gander.

The Shire and Killarney, Ring of Kerry

Driving over during tourist season is not recommended due to the tiny one-lane two-way traffic roads packed with hikers and tourists. But off-season, they say, it’s doable. I had half a gas tank, so I figured I’d try. It was tricky and a bit treacherous at points, and I almost ran out of gas, but I glided into a petrol station once I got over the gap and found my way back to civilization. It was in the middle of nowhere, and cell signaling was tricky. Beautiful. Stunning.

Gap of Dunloe, Ring of Kerry

After finally making it down the mountains from the Gap of Dunloe, I explored the countryside and looked up stone monuments. I saw the “Uragh stone circle” on the map and decided to venture towards it. After a maze of country rural roads, I found my way to the gate. I opened it, crossed over the river, and found parking. A hike up to the stone circle was mesmerizing and mystical. I felt grounded after a brief meditation, gazing at the standing stones and crisscrossed waterfall across the water. Then, back to the car for a slippery trek up to the Famine cottage ruins. I almost got stuck as the rain and slippery mud made the rental car slide down the hill. After settling in the car, I took a hike up the hill to check out the famine cottage ruins. Mysterious and intriguingly somber. Afterward, I headed back to the highway.

Uragh Stone Circle and Famine House

Once on the coast, following the Ring of Beara, I made my way to the legendary Ogham Stone. It was in the backyard of an Irish cottage, with a small donation drop-box to enter. A hike up the hill, and there it was in all its glory—beautiful and stunning. As much as I’d love to cover all the standing stones and stone circles I could drive to on this trek, I have to be selective as I have limited time.

Onwards across the Quay, I entered Kerry and the Ring of Beara. I trekked down to the mystical Hag of Beara stone that is supposed to be the petrified remains of the Hag of Bearra. Interested lore. It was pretty muddy, and lots of offerings remained. I could feel the dampness and warmth of the trapped life force in the stone and the solitude/loneliness of the space. I pondered “aging” as I transitioned from Father to wise man in the male trinity of aging. I enter this winter alone, exploring Irish lore and landscape, feeling my body age. I relate to Cailleagh’s crone ponderings of the poem. Having been to Beara’s house up north, this fit some elements of her mythical tale.

As darkness fell, I returned to the Abbey Hotel for a night’s rest. I grabbed a pint of Orchard Thieves’ cider to a dinner feast of Turkey cranberry stuffing roast as a pre-Xmas meal. I was exhausted. I called my son and played a game of Roblox, then called it a night …. the winds howled with gasping air through the window, reminiscent of wailing banshees.

The Shire, Killlearney, Co. Kerry:

GAP OF DUNLOE:

Uragh Stone Circle and Famine House:

The Beara Peninsula:

Ballycrovane Ogham Stone:

Hag Beara Stone:

Abbey Hotel:

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