12.18.23: Exploring Sacred Sites in Cork & Kerry

Monday, 18 December 2023
County Cork and Kerry, Ireland

Early to rise, I sat in my Abbey hotel room, waiting for the sun to rise. A shower, a cup of tea, and some rice cakes to snack on. I tested my blood sugars, and they are still high. Downstairs, breakfast was not open or being served. Apparently, they don’t operate the restaurant breakfast and lunchtime during winter months/off-season. I packed up for the day’s journey and headed to town to seek food. I settled for a local market, getting a chai, croissants, bangers, hash browns, and two fried eggs. Then, I sought to find the Tobar Ghobanatan Holy Wells, Shrine, Church ruins, and Graveyard.

Tobar Ghobanatan was across the street from the hotel, down a one-lane road into the hills. It has been nearly 10 years since I’ve been to the site, and holy well. I remember my first visit, finding a fairy mushroom ring just by the entrance to the central well. I wandered over to the wishing tree, made a wish, gathered water, and soaked in the energy. I then drove up to the Shrine and a statue of Ghobanatan, partaking of the other holy well. After walking through the graveyard, I followed the path between the two graveyards to a fern gully, then headed back to the car to continue my journey. I tried to find a ring fort I saw on the Archaeological Monuments database but couldn’t find a road up to it.

I continued down the N22, passing the Unicorn Monument. I tried to figure out a way to get up to see the statue, but I couldn’t find a way. Into County Kerry, tried to find a stone circle on the database, but all public access seemed closed off. I tried entering from the back end of Pikes Wood, but no go; too many trespassing signs. I did have a nice nature walk and got to see the Mass/Altar rock where people scratched crosses into a stone while attending secret mass there. After the hike, I pit stopped at Kerry Mills and bought myself an early Xmas gift – a wool sweater. Then pitstopped at the King Puck statue for the Puck Fair. I stopped at a Lidl grocery store for some sundries and supplies, then hit the Dingle Peninsula for a walk on the beach and absorb the sea air.

Driving around the Dingle Peninsula, walking the beach, and exploring ancient sites of Ireland. As I was driving around peninsula I spied a private farm with a “Fairy go Round” ring fort with petting station for kids to pet goats, sheep, and farm animals. The ring fort was beautiful and enchanting. Walking around the circle in and out of the fort was mesmerizing.

After exploring the Fairy Go Round and petting the animals, I hopped back into the rental car and headed along the drive. It was already an overcast day, but as the day progressed, it was getting darker. I saw the Dunbeg Fortifications and stopped by to take a gander. Luckily the custodian had just pulled in to grab something, collected my money and hung around while I walked down. Off season – they were still getting tourists so they should extend their duration.

the Dun Beag fort, pre-Celtic fortifications overlooking the ocean with stunning views, waterfalls, and panoramas.

As it was starting to get dark, my last stop was the 2,000 B.C.E. prehistoric Beehive huts which I paid admission for and headed up. Of course the phone was dead so would not take phone pictures or video. Luckily I had the tablet to get a few shots. Afterwards, I took the long drive back as darkness fell onwards to the Abbey Hotel. I was able to grab dinner downstairs as the pub/restaurant was open, going for the Christmas special turkey ham and potatoes dish with a Thieves’ Orchard cider. Onwards to the hotel room, I crashed shortly after.

Abbey Hotel Gallery: https://technowanderer.com/abbey-hotel/

Tobar Ghobanatan holy wells, shrine, ruins, and graveyard:

Pike Wood/Mass Rock:

The Fairy Go Round Ring Fort, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry, Ireland:

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